Sat - November 10, 2007

Bushwhacking and Paddling the Arkansas River and John Martin Reserwoir



Arkansas Valley Balloon Festival
I spent last weekend in southern Colorado chasing and photographing hot air balloons at the Arkansas Valley Balloon Festival. I was staying in Pueblo and drove each morning to Rocky Ford near La Junta and further along the Arkansas River. I had my Thunderbolt kayak with me and didn't neglect paddling.

John Martin Reservoir on the Arkansas River is a potentially large body of water in south eastern Colorado near Los Animas. It can cover more than 22,000 acres when full. There is a State Park with boat ramps in eastern part of the reservoir. The park also includes a small lake (Lake Hasty) below the dam with a year around campground.

From the State Park website:

Sometimes called a sapphire on the plains, John Martin is a paradise for people to play, birds to flock and wildlife to roam. The park is close to historic landmarks, yet remote enough to attract year-round nature and recreation lovers to stay and explore.

John Martin Reservoir provides uncrowded boating, waterskiing, and spectacular conditions for a wide variety of wind water sports. The mild southeastern Colorado weather provides plenty of great days throughout the year. Anglers from shore or boat catch walleye, saugeye, bass, wiper, crappie, perch, and catfish.

Many consider the park a birdwatcher's paradise with almost 400 species documented in Bent County. Majestic Bald Eagles roost here in winter. Threatened and endangered species like the Piping Plover and the Least Tern make the park their home for several months each year. After the birds go to sleep, the stars entertain in a dramatic display of celestial light.

kayaking John Martin Reservoir kayaking John Martin Reservoir kayaking John Martin Reservoir
Unfortunately, the website does not mention that the eastern part of the reservoir with boat ramp access is closed by November 1 to protect migratory waterfowl, but this closure is marked on the reservoir map. There are some boat ramps in the western part of the lake, but at the current water level there is no water there. So, there is no boating on the lake after November 1 unless you are a kayaker.

Following the advice from a park ranger I tried to reach the reservoir west, i.e., upstream from the State Park, using one of range going south from the JJ county road. These roads are not very rough but squeeze through a dense cover of cottonwood and tamarisk bushes. After a couple of miles of slow driving and bushwhacking I reached a nice rocky cliff with a view of something which looked like water. I was just across of a railroad trestle on the other side of the valley and, apparently, a little bit too far upstream.

I was tired with driving and decided to launch my kayak there. I carried the 21' Thunderbolt about a quarter of mile through dense bushes, unfriendly weeds, and marsh to reach some shallow muddy water. I had to drag, and then push my boat for a mile through these mud flats before I could paddle on a shallow river. Another half mile and I was on a very blue lake.

kayaking John Martin Reservoir kayaking John Martin Reservoir kayaking John Martin Reservoir

I was alone on the lake. Later, I saw some fishermen on the shore using rope to go down the rocky cliff. The scenery was similar to the Lake Pueblo. I enjoyed rocky outcroppings with interesting forms of erosion and even small caves and pillars. Unfortunately, the light in the middle of day was just terrible to photograph those light rocks. Of course, the restricted part of the lake looked the most interesting, but I didn't cross the border. There were indeed a lot of birds. I saw flying cranes for the first time in Colorado.

Paddling was on the lake was rather short but nice. Soon, I paddled back upstream of the shallow river. Before the river turned away from the high rocky shore I landed almost sinking in the mud, climbed the cliff and carried the kayak along the cliff for a mile or so to my car. I was too tired to stay there till sunset to shoot some nicer pictures.

If you are near the John Martin reservoir ti is worth to paddle there. It is better to do it before the end of October and use one of the boat ramps in the State Park. After November 1 you can still paddle the lake and, I believe, it is possible to drive closer to the water than I did, but this is the option for real adventures.

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